Iceland is the most wild place I have ever been.
Quite consistently throughout my travels, I’m able to arrive in a new place and sense some degree of familiarity, whether that be a language, architecture, food or landscape. It’s not uncommon for me to say something like, “this place reminds me of ___”
Upon flying into Keflavík (gear up trying to pronounce the names of places I’ll drop in this post) Airport, I quite literally drew a blank when searching for comparison, and the closest I came up with is what I would picture Mars to resemble. I remember shifting in my chair with a subtle discomfort; there’s something unnerving yet intriguing about setting foot in a place that feels alien.
We took about a 45 minute bus ride to central Reykjavik, where a friendly taxi driver swooped us up and took us to pick up our campervan we’d call home for the next 4 days.
There are loads of campervan companies you can go with on the island, and they’re probably all great (Iceland — as we would discover — rarely lacks customer service or attention to detail). That said, you should go with Cozy Campers. From the moment we walked in we were greeted by a young, friendly and energetic crew that seemed genuinely stoked to get us on the road in one of their modern, fully-equipped vans.
We were given a quick how-to and added some bonus items. Definitely recommend looking at the add-ons upon booking online, as the van’s amenities is relatively basic without them. Before we knew it, we were packed in and on the road due south to Vik.
Our first couple of stops included some of the most famous tourist attractions, including the Seljalandsfoss and Skogafoss waterfalls. Though they were riddled with visitors, they truly didn’t lack the “wow” factor. Certainly worth getting up close with these powerful giants.
We used this link — Happy Campers Iceland Campsites — to map out which campsites we’d end up at each day; not to be confused with Happy Campers campervans, another reputable campervan company. It’s a Google function that proved to be incredibly helpful when developing a rough route.
Many of the reviews expressed that we didn’t really need a reservation at our chosen campsites, so we listened and it proved to be correct. Perhaps double checking if you happen to be there on a holiday weekend, but we found it really easy to pull up, pay and park.
Vik Campsite was our first stop, which is a really convenient central location to the Southern region. It’s a small, picturesque town with tiny bars and shops, nestled against green hilltops with an iconic chapel that sits above it all. We made dinner with the groceries we picked up from a supermarket in Reykjavik, then transformed our vehicle into a home. This is really our kind of adventure.
The next day we continued along the Southern coast towards Skafatfell National Park. Our first stop was the impressive Fjadrargljufur Canyon. This would also, unbeknownst to us, be our last busy stop of the trip before we ventured to another canyon the same day.
We had seen photos of this secret canyon, but little to no directions on how the hell to get there. Ultimately we found it by using the Satellite version of Google maps. I cannot express enough how much we were winging this hike, so much so that we parked on the side of the highway and walked through a marshy wasteland for a good two miles before we found something that resembled a trail.
There was a road that led to the base of the “trail,” but our van wasn’t allowed because it wasn’t 4 wheel drive. So we walked, and walked…and walked. About 4 miles later, unsure whether this mysterious trail was going to lead us to the secret canyon, we suddenly found ourselves — completely alone — in what could only be compared to Rivendell from Lord of the Rings.
I’m going to be that traveler just on this blog post and say that if you want to find this place, look on Satellite Google Maps somewhere between Hof and Fjallsarlon.
…Or DM me on Instagram and I’ll give you the coordinates.
We then headed to Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon where we got up close and personal with some icebergs. It blew my mind how I could be surrounded by lush green mountains one moment then near a bright blue glacier mass the next. The diversity of this island is remarkable.
Fully satisfied with our bold adventure, we called it quits and headed to stay at Skaftafell Campground, another beautifully set ground with a food truck of local fish n’ chips and lobster bisque.
We were set to meet our friends India and Jay back in Vik the next day after a workshop she was teaching. India was Ryan and I’s engagement and wedding photographer back in 2016/2017. Her, Jay, and us had visited Amsterdam together in 2018, so we were stoked to be reunited with this crew which is always full of belly laughs and good conversation. We were also lucky enough to get these incredible captures of the two of us. Forever in awe of India’s talent, and grateful for their friendship!
That evening, we galavanted above the town of Vik:
(All Carousel images by India Earl)
Then, we hit Dyrhólaey for sunset. No words except…hit Dyrhólaey for sunset:
For our last day, we ventured to hike the massive rock of Hjörleifshöfði (try saying that five times fast. Or rather, just try saying that). Highly recommend hiking up this crazy land mass for epic views of the black sand beaches.
We ended back on those black sand beaches with the basalt rock formations, windy as all get out, and probably the most unique beach we’ll ever step foot on.
Thank you, India Earl, for the incredible memories of Ry and I. And for the adventure past and future with the two of you!
Iceland is one of the few places in the world that is so visited yet wild at the same time. Though it’s accessible by tourists of all kinds, you’re also able to really get OUT there with virtually no other human in sight. We can’t wait to explore more of this island, next time with a 4x4 in the highlands.
Go to Iceland with the freedom of a campervan and make it your own escapade!
Visited August 2019.